Jewelry chain with stamped links and precious stones

ABSTRACT

An improved jewelry chain comprising a plurality of links, each link comprising a head, a neck and a tail, each of the head and the tail having a socket through which successive links are attached. Links in the chain are interconnected by passing a successive link through both the head and the tail of a preceding link, thus combining one link to another by hooking a preceding single link to a successive single link at two distinct contact points to produce the jewelry chain. Upon creation of the jewelry chain, the exposed top surface of each head is modularly fitted to receive stamped, casted and/or machined plates, collets, mountings and/or sockets in which precious stones may be received and set on the surface of the bracelet.

FIELD OF INVENTION

The present application relates generally to the field of jewelry. Morespecifically, the invention involves jewelry necklaces, bracelets, ringspendants, earrings, bangles and the like that are formed from combininga number of individual links. Even more particularly, the inventioninvolves a jewelry chain comprised of a plurality of interlocking,stamped links, with precious, semi-precious and non-precious stonesattached along the length of the jewelry chain.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

One of the predominant methods of producing jewelry is by casting.Generally, casting has been utilized for thousands of years and iswidely regarded as the least expensive means of forming a variety ofjewelry designs and textures that are found on the surfaces of jewelry.Cast jewelry is typically formed by first creating a model from which arubber mold is created. Liquid wax is then poured into the rubber moldto create a wax model. Plaster is then poured over the wax model, placedaside to dry and then heated in a kiln. As the plaster is heated, thewax melts and vacates, leaving a plaster mold with a cavity forreceiving the liquid precious (or non-precious) metal. After the metalis poured in, it is then cooled and the jewelry is finished.

Among its advantages, casting is a relatively expeditious method forproducing identical pieces of jewelry. Nevertheless, even though theutility of casting jewelry is evident and, in many instances, thepreferred means of manufacturing jewelry, casting tends to yield jewelrythat more porous than jewelry that is created utilizing other methods ofmanufacture like stamping and milling (machined). Moreover, because ofthe time and number of processes it takes a manufacturer to produce apiece of jewelry, casting is a tedious and long process. The added timeand number of steps typically require significantly more labor tocomplete a given piece of jewelry, resulting in additional economiccosts to the jewelry manufacturer.

Traditionally casted jewelry also suffers from another significantdisadvantage. In particular, when using individually casted elements toproduce a chain or other linked pieces of jewelry, a manufacturer oftenmust solder individual links in order to produce a piece of jewelry withclosed, individual loops. This practice typically results in jewelryhaving links that are more prone to breaking at the point of soldering,depending in part on the form of solder that is employed by the jewelrymanufacturer.

Furthermore, utilizing casted elements to produce linked pieces ofjewelry is often impractical because casted individual links generallydo not have sufficient flexibility to enable each of the casted links tobend in a manner that is required to form a linked piece of jewelry,such as a bracelet or necklace. In that regard, even when flexiblealloys are used, each casted jewelry link cannot bend over itself toproduce a series of interconnected links (i.e., a chain) without eitherbreaking in the area of flexion where the link is bent, or having tobend the link in a manner that forms an unappealing or undesirably largearc in the same area of flexion.

Another significant disadvantage of casted jewelry is that chains formedof casted metal require significantly more mass to adequately withstanda given load or force. Thus, forces, such as pulling or tugging, thatare commonly applied to jewelry chains during ordinary wear are moreprone to result in breaking of a casted piece of jewelry.

To avert some of the drawbacks of traditionally casted jewelry, somemanufactures employ the method of metal stamping to produce jewelry.Utilizing the process of stamping, a jewelry manufacturer or designerfirst creates an original piece by hand. Thereafter, a metal die iscreated using the original. Mass manufacture of a production piece ofjewelry then takes place by striking the die into ‘softer’ preciousmetal. Generally, stamping results in denser and more durable jewelry ascompared to jewelry produced by casting. However, despite the benefitsof stamping, the manufacture of jewelry is still not as effective andproductive as it potentially can be.

In addition to the foregoing drawbacks associated with the manufacturingprocesses, there is a rising consumer demand for jewelry chains (e.g.necklaces and bracelets) that comprise precious metals (e.g., such asgold and silver) and precious and/or non-precious stones which aresufficiently lightweight to be sold at affordable wholesale and retailprice points. By the same token, there is a demand for bracelets andnecklaces which are visually substantial on display (e.g., for sale andwhen worn by a user) and which have sufficient strength and flexibilityto withstand (inadvertent and intentional) forces that are applied tothose items during ordinary wear by a user.

Accordingly, despite the respective benefits of jewelry produced bycasting and by stamping, there remains a need to produce a relativelylightweight, linked jewelry chain comprising precious metals and stones,which is not subject to the drawbacks associated with prior art piecesof jewelry.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In view of the limitations and drawbacks in the prior art, it is aprimary object of the present invention to provide a lightweight,jewelry chain comprised of a plurality of linked elements that eachreceive a stone.

It is another object of the present invention to provide an improvedjewelry chain comprised of matching, stamped links that interconnect toand are looped through one another at two distinct points to produce thejewelry chain thus eliminating the process of soldering at the linkingpoint.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide an improvedjewelry chain link, utilized to produce a jewelry chain that is strongerand more flexible than comparable casted jewelry chains havingsignificantly more weight.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide an improvedjewelry chain comprised of a plurality of links that enable the chain tohang and suspend naturally when worn while resisting twisting andknotting associated with many prior art jewelry chains.

It is another object of the present invention to provide an improvedjewelry chain comprised of a plurality of versatile links that aremodularly fitted to receive stamped, casted and/or machined plates,collets, mountings and/or sockets.

Another object of the present invention is to produce a jewelry chainthat is physically more ductile and malleable and can be constructed ofa lighter weight, with a better finish and by a faster assembly process.

Additional objectives will be apparent from the description of theinvention that follows.

In summary, there is provided in a preferred embodiment of the presentinvention an improved jewelry chain comprising a plurality of links.Each link comprises a head and a tail, each of the head and the tailhaving an aperture or socket through which successive links areattached. Generally, links in the chain are interconnected by bending afirst preceding link such that its head aperture and tail aperture arealigned to receive the tail of the next link, and then passing asuccessive link through both the head and the tail of a preceding link,thus combining one link to another by hooking a preceding single link toa successive single link at two distinct contact points to produce thejewelry chain. Upon creation of the jewelry chain, the exposed topsurface of each head is modularly fitted to receive stamped, castedand/or machined plates, collets, mountings and/or sockets in whichprecious stones may be received and set on the surface of the bracelet.In a preferred embodiment, an illusion plate is laser or hand welded tothe head of each link after the chain is formed and a precious (or semi-or non-precious) is set therein.

Additional features of the jewelry chain with stamped links and preciousstones are described below in more detail.

BRIEF DESCRIPTIONS OF THE DRAWINGS

The above-described and other advantages and features of the presentdisclosure will be appreciated and understood by those skilled in theart from the following detailed description and drawings of which

FIG. 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of the improved jewelrychain link of the present invention, and side view of the same improvedjewelry chain link;

FIG. 2 is a side view of a first preceding improved jewelry chain linkin a folded or pressed position, and a side view of a second jewelrychain link before being inserted through the first preceding link;

FIG. 3 is a side view of a first preceding improved jewelry chain linkin a folded or pressed position, and a second jewelry chain link in asubstantially perpendicular orientation with respect to the firstpreceding link as the second link is inserted through the firstpreceding link;

FIG. 4 is a side view of a first preceding improved jewelry chain linkin a folded or pressed position, and a side view of a second jewelrychain link fully inserted through the first preceding link and in apartial folded or pressed position;

FIG. 5 is a side view of a first preceding improved jewelry chain linkand a second jewelry chain link, both in a folded or pressed position,and wherein said second link is ready to receive a subsequent link;

FIG. 6 is a bottom view of a preferred embodiment of two interconnectedimproved jewelry chain links of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a bottom view of a preferred embodiment of a jewelry chaincomprising a series of improved jewelry chain links of the presentinvention;

FIG. 8 is a top view of the jewelry chain shown in FIG. 7, comprising aseries of improved jewelry chain links, each link mounted with anillusion plate and a precious stone set therein;

FIG. 9 is a side view of a jewelry chain comprising five links;

FIG. 10 is a graph setting forth the results of a breaking load test fora stamped bracelet created in accordance with the present invention,comprising precious metal and weighing 3.32 grams; and

FIG. 11 is a graph setting forth the results of a breaking load test fora casted bracelet comprising precious metal and weighing 4.13 grams.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

With reference to FIGS. 1 through 9, there is shown a preferredembodiment of the jewelry chain 10 and its constituent stamped links 12of the present invention. The jewelry chain 10 comprises a plurality ofround links 12, the number of which is variable, depending on thedesired length of the chain 10. While the preferred embodiment is shownwith round links 12, it should be appreciated that multiple other shapesand configurations may be utilized instead of or in conjunction withround links. For example, square, pentagon, hexagon and other geometricand non-geometric shapes may be substituted in place of a roundconfiguration.

Each link 12 comprises a head 14, a neck 16 and a tail 18, the head 14having a head aperture or socket 20 and the tail 18 having a tailaperture or socket 22. As depicted in FIG. 1. FIG. 3 and FIGS. 6 through8, adjacent to the perimeter 13 of each link 12 are ornamental visualindicia 15, in this case, a plurality of alternating peaks and valleysradially stamped into the surface of each link 12. When viewed from thetop, radially inward from the ornamental indicia 15 on each link 12 is asubstantially planar surface, preferably formed as a stamped depression17. When viewed from the back, the stamped depression 17 of each link 12appears reversed and thus, slightly raised.

In a preferred embodiment, the surface area of the head 14 of each link12 is greater than the surface area of the tail 18. The ratio of thehead surface area (not including the area defined within the headaperture 20) to the tail surface area (not including the area definedwithin the tail aperture 22) is greater than 1.5:1 and most preferablygreater than 2:1 such that the head 14 is noticeably larger than thetail 18. Moreover, in a most preferred embodiment, the profile of thetail 18 is sized such that it does not extend beyond the outer profileor perimeter formed by the head 14 when the link 12 is in a fullypressed position as shown in FIG. 5 and FIG. 6. The relative sizedifferential between the head 14 and tail 18 enables the ornamentalfeatures of the jewelry chain 10 to be predominantly targeted at thehead 14 that forms each link 12 of the jewelry chain 10, where themajority of precious metal mass is located. While the foregoingrepresents a preferred embodiment, it should be appreciated that therespective dimensions of the head and tail may be altered so that thetwo are more closely sized, provided that the tail of a subsequent linkcan be looped through the head (and tail) of a preceding link.

Depicted in FIG. 1 through FIG. 6, is a preferred progression offormation of a jewelry chain 10, beginning with two individual links 12,12. As shown in FIG. 2, a first preceding link 12 is folded at the neck16 such that the forward tip 24 of the head 14 converges at (or veryclose to) the tip 28 of the tail 18. Once a preceding link 12 is folded,a small loop 26 in the shape of a raindrop is formed. The significanceof forming a raindrop-shaped loop 26, which is larger at the bottom andbecomes progressively narrower until it culminates at a point defined bythe convergence of the head 14 and tail 18, is that it significantlyrestricts movement between two connecting links. As shown most clearlyin FIG. 5, once a second or subsequent link 12 is placed in a fullyfolded or pressed position, there is an extremely limited amount ofspace into which the pressed head 14 and tail 18 of a preceding link 12can fit. Moreover, depending on the combined thickness of the precedinghead 14 and tail 18, butting between two links 12, 12 can be completelyor nearly eliminated (even though some pivotal and lateral movementremains possible). This permits the top surface 30 each preceding link12 in a chain 10 to predominantly remain exposed and in full view.

As shown in FIG. 3 and FIG. 4, once a first or preceding link 12 isfolded, a second or subsequent link 12 is partially folded and theninserted through the top surface 30 of the head 14 and correspondinghead socket 20, followed immediately through the tail socket 22.Significantly, in a preferred embodiment, the tail 18 has a widthdimension that exceeds the width dimension of the head socket 20 but isless than the length dimension of the head socket 20. This featurerequires tail 18 of a subsequent link 12 to initially be orientedperpendicularly (or substantially perpendicular) to the preceding head14 and its head socket 20 to enable the tail 18 of a subsequent link 12to pass through sockets 20, 22 of preceding link 12. Once tail 18 of thesecond or subsequent link 12 passes through sockets 20, 22, thesubsequent link 12 is rotated approximately 90 degrees, in a mannerwhich extends the chain 10, and is re-oriented so that it issubstantially in line with the preceding link 12. Rotation is possibleafter the tail passes sockets 20, 22 because neck 16 preferably has awidth dimension that is marginally less than the width dimension of saidhead socket 20. If additional movement is desired, a thinner neck 16 canbe constructed which will enable a larger degree of movement. Inconjunction with the rotation of the subsequent link 12 so that it isoriented in line with the preceding link 12, neck 16 loops throughsockets 20, 22, and is folded further as shown in FIG. 4 and thenpressed closed as shown in FIG. 5. Notably, the looping and folding of asubsequent link 12 keeps the head 14 and tail 18 of a preceding foldedlink 12 sandwiched between the folded neck 16 of the subsequent link 12.Forward movement from the preceding link 12 on the left into the rear ofthe subsequent link 12 on the right remains limited by the raindrop loop26 as discussed above. Nevertheless, a preceding link 12 may pivot ormove along the neck 16 of a subsequent link 16, which allows a chain 10comprising a large number of links 12 to naturally dangle and wraparound a user's wrist or neck during use. It should be appreciated thatwhen folding links according to the present invention, the foldingallows head aperture or socket 20 to be substantially aligned with tailaperture socket 22 so that the apertures are aligned for receiving asubsequent link. Conversely, if sockets 20, 22 are not properly aligned,attaching subsequent links may be difficult or impossible.

Another significant feature of a jewelry chain 10 formed by links 12 isthat a preceding single link 12 is attached to a successive single link12 at two distinct contacts—at the head 14 and tail 18 of a precedinglink 12—to produce a chain 10. The presence of two distinct contactpoints between which tension can be relieved and/or shifted duringmoments of stress provide an distinct advantage to chains 10 formed bylinks 12. In that regard, it may be desirable to provide additional bulkand/or width to produce head tip 24 and/or tail tip 28 that isnon-uniform with the rest of the head 14 and/or tail 18, respectively,so that each link 12 and the chain 10 as a whole may be able towithstand greater forces of tension, at an overall lighter weightwithout breaking apart.

Once a series of links 12 are looped and connected, a chain 10 isformed, as shown in FIG. 7 and FIG. 8. Upon formation of a chain 10, itis often desirable to apply an additional finishing step to the lastlink or end link 12E in the chain 10, such as a small laser weld at tips24, 28 which keeps link 12E in a pressed position during ordinary wearfor the life of the chain 10. This step is not required at other links12 because each subsequent link keeps its preceding link in a fullypressed position for the life of the chain 10. Once a chain 10 isformed, any suitable jewelry clasp known in the art may be applied tothe chain 10.

As shown in FIG. 8, once a chain 10 is formed, an illusion plate 32 isapplied to the top surface 30 of each link 12. A preferred method ofattaching the plate 32 to the head is via the process of laser welding.While soldering may also be utilized, laser welding is preferred forreasons that are known in the art. Set in the illusion plate is a smallprecious, semi- or non-precious stone 34. While a preferred embodimentof the jewelry chain 10 of the present invention utilizes an illusionplate 32, it should appreciated that the exposed top surface 30 of eachhead 14 is modularly fitted to receive other forms of stamped, castedand/or machined plates, collets, mountings and/or sockets in whichprecious stones may be received and set on the surface of the chain 10.

One of the advantages of the present invention is the repeated use ofidentical or substantially identical links that match to form a jewelrychain. Based on this feature, the machinery used to manufacture thelinks can be employed to produce the same forms of links withoutinterruption and without the need to produce or utilize different linksto produce a chain. While different stamped links from those depicted inthe drawings may be utilized, the stamping dies used to form each linkare generally intended to remain constant to produce links that areconsistently the same. In an alternate embodiment, for example, dies maybe created to form stamped links each having a series of prongs orsettings that are stamped into the surface of a head in which stones maybe directly mounted (e.g., without the use of a separate plate ormounting).

The benefits and advantages of the stamped jewelry chain 10 formed inaccordance with the present invention is further substantiated by thetest results presented in FIG. 10 and FIG. 11. FIG. 10 presents theresults of a breaking load test for a stamped 92.5% silver braceletconstructed of links 12 and weighing a total of 3.32 grams. As a loadapplied to the chain is progressively increased from 0 kgf, a braceletcomprising stamped links 12 exhibits the ability to extend and stretchwithout breaking or snapping. For example, at just under 2 kgf (e.g., 2kgf=2×9.80665 N=19.6133 N), the bracelet exhibits an extension of 1 mm;at just above 4 kgf, the bracelet exhibits an extension of 3 mm; and atapproximately 8 kgf, the bracelet exhibits an extension of 6.5 mm. Thestamped bracelet made in accordance with the present invention continuesto exhibit increased extension with an increasing load until it reachesa max load of 9.62 kgf.

In contrast, FIG. 11 presents the results of a breaking load test for acomparable casted 92.5% silver bracelet having a weight of 4.13 grams.As a load applied to the casted chain is progressively increased from 0kgf, a bracelet comprising casted links exhibits the ability to extendand stretch without breaking or snapping, albeit at a lower extensionrate per unit load. Thus, the load that the casted bracelet is able tocarry and tensile capability is limited as compared to the stampedbracelet made in accordance with the present invention. For example, atapproximately 2.7 kgf, the bracelet exhibits an extension of 1 mm; atabout 4 kgf, the bracelet exhibits an extension of 2 mm (in comparisonto the 3 mm of extension achieved with the stamped bracelet); and atapproximately 6 kgf, the bracelet exhibits an extension of approximately5 mm. Notably, the casted bracelet reaches a maximum load at 6.30 kgf ascompared to the stamped bracelet which reaches a maximum load at 9.62kgf.

The jewelry chains that were load-tested were also subject to hardnesstesting, pursuant to ASTM E384-08, the specification of which isincorporated herein by reference. As noted in the ASTM E384-08specification, this test method covers determination of themicroindentation hardness of materials. This test method coversmicroindentation tests made with Knoop and Vickers indenters under testforces in the range from 9.8×10⁻³ to 9.8 N (1 to 1000 gf). Hardnesstests have been found to be very useful for materials evaluation,quality control of manufacturing processes and research and developmentefforts. Hardness, although empirical in nature, can be correlated totensile strength for many metals, and is an indicator of wear resistanceand ductility. When testing hardness, the Vickers indenter usuallyproduces a geometrically similar indentation at all test forces. Exceptfor tests at very low forces that produce indentations with diagonalssmaller than about 25 μm, the hardness number will be essentially thesame as produced by Vickers machines with test forces greater than 1kgf, as long as the material being tested is reasonably homogeneous. Forisotropic materials, the two diagonals of a Vickers indentation areequal in size.

The ASTM E384-08 test results of a stamped bracelet made in accordancewith the present invention (and tested in connection with the load test,the results of which are presented in FIG. 10), reveal that the stampedlinks are significantly softer as compared to a casted bracelet. Testingmicrohardness at 25 gm HV (where the force applied is 0.025kg×9.80665=0.24517 N) yields hardness results of 157, 150 and 156 forthe stamped bracelet, and hardness results of 120, 123 and 130 for thecasted bracelet. Notably, the variable values in the Vickers hardnesstest results appear to be based on the minor hardness variations thatmay exist within a material at different points along the braceletswhere the tests were taken. Accordingly, multiple test values are takenas representative of the overall hardness. Despite the variations inVickers hardness results in a particular test subject, the testingclearly demonstrates that stamped metal exhibits a greater overallhardness than its casted counterpart.

The accompanying drawings only illustrate a preferred embodiments of animproved jewelry chain with enhanced stamped links and method ofproducing same. However, other types and configurations are possible,and the drawings are not intended to be limiting in that regard. Thus,although the description above and accompanying drawings contains muchspecificity, the details provided should not be construed as limitingthe scope of the embodiment(s) but merely as providing illustrations ofsome of the presently preferred embodiment(s). The drawings and thedescription are not to be taken as restrictive on the scope of theembodiment(s) and are understood as broad and general teachings inaccordance with the present invention. While the present embodiment(s)of the invention have been described using specific terms, suchdescription is for present illustrative purposes only, and it is to beunderstood that modifications and variations to such embodiments,including but not limited to the substitutions of equivalent features,materials, or parts, and the reversal of various features thereof, maybe practiced by those of ordinary skill in the art without departingfrom the spirit and scope of the invention. It should also be noted thatthe terms “first,” “preceding,” “second,” “subsequent” and similar termsmay be used herein to modify various elements. These modifiers do notimply a spatial, sequential, or hierarchical order to the modifiedelements unless specifically stated.

1. A jewelry chain comprising: a plurality of stamped links pressed intoa folded position, each link having a head with a head aperture, a neck,and a tail with a tail aperture, wherein when said links are folded atsaid neck, said head aperture and said tail aperture of a preceding linkare substantially aligned to receive a tail of a subsequent link throughsaid head aperture and said tail aperture of said preceding link.
 2. Thejewelry chain of claim 1, said tail having a tail tip and said headhaving a head tip, wherein each of said plurality of links form araindrop shaped loop defined by said neck, said tail tip and said headtip.
 3. The jewelry chain of claim 1, the head aperture having a lengthdimension and a width dimension, and the tail having a width dimensionthat exceeds the width dimension of said head aperture but is less thanthe length dimension of said head socket.
 4. The jewelry chain of claim5, the neck having a width dimension that is less than the widthdimension of said head socket.
 5. The jewelry chain of claim 1 whereinwhen a subsequent link inserted through said head aperture and said tailaperture, said subsequent link must be oriented substantiallyperpendicular relative to said preceding link.
 6. A jewelry chaincomprising: a plurality of stamped links pressed into a folded position,each link having a head with a head aperture, a neck, and a tail with atail aperture; wherein said head and tail of each preceding link is heldbetween the neck of a subsequent link, restricting butting between twolinks while allowing a preceding link to pivot across the neck of asubsequent link.
 7. The jewelry chain of claim 6, wherein when saidlinks are folded at said neck, said head aperture and said tail apertureof a preceding link are substantially aligned to receive a tail of asubsequent link through said head aperture and said tail aperture ofsaid preceding link.
 8. The jewelry chain of claim 7, further comprisinga mounting plate attached to each of said plurality of stamped links. 9.The jewelry chain of claim 7, wherein said plurality of links includes alast link, said head and said tail of said last link being weldedtogether to complete said chain.
 10. The jewelry chain of claim 7, thehead aperture having a length dimension and a width dimension, and thetail having a width dimension that exceeds the width dimension of saidhead aperture but is less than the length dimension of said head socket.11. A stamped link utilized in the construction of a jewelry chaincomprising: a head, said head having a head tip and a head socket; atail, said tail having a tail tip and a tail socket and a neckpositioned between said head and said tail; wherein when a precedinglink is folded at said neck, said head socket and said tail socket arealigned to receive a subsequent link inserted through said head socketand said tail socket.
 12. The link of claim 11, wherein when said linkis folded at said neck, a raindrop shaped loop is formed between saidhead and said tail.
 13. The link of claim 11, wherein when said link isfolded at said neck, said tail tip does not extend beyond said head tip.14. The link of claim 13, wherein when said link is folded at said neck,the profile of said tail does not extend beyond the profile of saidhead.
 15. The link of claim 11, the head socket having a lengthdimension and a width dimension, and the tail having a width dimensionthat exceeds the width dimension of said head socket but is less thanthe length dimension of said head socket.
 16. The link of claim 15, theneck having a width dimension that is less than the width dimension ofsaid head socket.
 17. The link of claim 11 wherein said head socket andsaid tail socket have respective dimensions that are substantiallyidentical.
 18. The link of claim 11, wherein said head comprises stampedornamental visual indicia.
 19. The link of claim 11, the head having ahead surface area and the tail having a tail surface area, wherein theratio of said head surface area to said tail surface area is greaterthan 1.5:1.
 20. The link of claim 11 wherein when a subsequent linkinserted through said head socket and said tail socket, said subsequentlink must be oriented substantially perpendicular relative to saidpreceding link.